REACHING NEW HEIGHTS
Pushing through temperatures of -60° and winds of over 100km per hour, Warren and John were the first South Africans to stand where only 377 people have stood before.
WHY WAS K2 A GOAL FOR YOU?
John Black (JB): When I was 17 years old, I read Jim Curran’s book K2 The Story of the Savage Mountain – and ever since then it’s been a waiting game whilst we developed our skills, confidence and experience on other mountains all over the world. I wanted to climb Everest first, then I focused on the Seven Summits which I completed in 2018. Then my focus moved back to K2 – it really is a mountaineer’s mountain. It’s high, steep, sustained, technical rock climbing with steep ice and lots of snow. A true test.
Warren Eva (WE): This has been a goal stretching back to when we, as a group of climbers and friends, were teenagers. As a mountain it is everything that would challenge a mountaineer, be the pinnacle of their career and the ultimate goal. K2 is a beautiful, imposing pyramid of rock and ice with unpredictable weather, difficult access, avalanches, rockfalls and a presence that commands the greatest respect.
WHAT DOES THIS ACHIEVEMENT MEAN TO YOU?
JB: I don’t believe that a summit changes one per se, but the entire experience was amazing and the conclusion of a 25-yearold goal. I am so happy to have been able to share it with long-standing friends, make new friends on the mountain, experience a new culture and country, and come back having had a great time. It also means the world to me that my 9-year-old son is proud of his dad.
WE: Our goal of climbing K2 was never to be the first South Africans, but after several failed attempts by experienced South African mountaineers who I hold in high regard, it was the cherry on top to be able to bring back and share this great success with our country. We have been overwhelmed by support and wishes.
WHAT WAS THE EXPERIENCE LIKE?
JB: It was hard, make no mistake, but it was amazing to be able to do something so special. The views, the night sky, the people – the experience was something I will never forget.
WE: It was such an honour to be in the mountains with the most incredible views. Even the hardest day was made pleasant by looking up and enjoying the vista over a ridge or around a corner.
HOW DID IT FEEL STANDING IN A PLACE WHERE ONLY 377 PEOPLE HAVE STOOD BEFORE YOU?
JB: It was an immense privilege to be there. I knew how rare and special it was, and I knew how many people had died trying to get there (almost 100). It was also a massive relief. After all the time, money, sacrifice that we and our families had made for us to be there, it was a relief to have pulled it off.
WE: That moment was what the whole trip was all about. We were grateful to have run out of uphill, but also there was anxiety because we still had to descend. However, the views from the summit, especially at sunrise, were indescribable. To share that with my close friend and climbing partner makes it that much more special.
WERE THERE ANY EXPERIENCES THAT WERE PLEASANT SURPRISES?
JB: I was very impressed with the Pakistani food we ate and the people we met, who were very hospitable and genuinely cared that we had a good experience whilst there. Despite poverty being an issue in the country, we felt 100% safe all the time.
WE: Even though the mountain was relentless, I was surprised at how well John and I adapted. Our training and prep all fell into place and we just moved in sync, calmly and efficiently. It was so nice to be in one of the most inhospitable and difficult places on earth, and find that physically, emotionally and mentally, we were ready and strong.
WHAT WAS THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE EXPERIENCE FOR YOU?
JB: The summit was incredible of course, but the real highlight was arriving back in Advanced Base camp. At that stage we knew we were safe, and the danger was behind us.
WE: Spending time with good friends, doing what we love, has to be my favourite part of every mountain I’ve climbed – but let’s not discount sunrise on the summit! Jana, my girlfriend, made the 100km trek to base camp to spend time with us before returning home with another friend, which was also very special.
HOW DID YOU KEEP ‘HOME’ WITH YOU?
JB: Phones didn’t work 99% of the time, but we had an inReach communication device that allowed us to send and receive text messages. That was a great lifeline home.
WE: Letters from family and loved ones as well as photos.
